Carnation Perfume — Spicy Clove Floral

Carnation in perfumery: the clove and rose accord

Carnation, a flower turned reconstruction

The florist's carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus) has been cultivated in Mediterranean Europe since antiquity, where it was already used for garlands. Its flower contains very little odorant material: an absolute obtained by solvent extraction existed for a long time, particularly in the South of France, but its negligible yield and cost caused it to disappear from common formulas. The carnation of perfumery is therefore, almost always, a reconstruction. Perfumers build it around eugenol and isoeugenol, molecules derived from cloves, complemented by materials of roseand a peppery touch. This architecture, developed at the turn of the twentieth century, remains surprisingly stable today.

What does carnation smell like?

Carnation smells like a warm, peppery flower, anything but innocent. One perceives first the clove, dry, slightly medicinal, almost anesthetic, then a heart of spicy rose and a powdery trail. Depending on the dosage, the note veers into metallic green, varnish, or conversely, velvet. On the skin, it settles quickly and lasts a long time: eugenol is a tenacious material, which marks a perfume even in its base. The sillage remains enveloping rather than demonstrative. It is a note that one notices, often described as retro, because it defined many great compositions from the twenties to the fifties.

Carnation perfumes at Soleil d'Or

Quelques Fleurs L'Originalby Houbigant, composed in 1912 by Robert Bienaimé, counts among the first great modern floral bouquets: here, carnation serves as a spicy binder between the flowers. Tabac Blondby Caronplaces it on the contrary within leather, where its clove warmth prolongs the smoke. At Serge Lutens, Nuit de cellophaneemploys it with much more restraint, supporting a luminous floral. Nuda Veritasby Atelier des Orsoffers a contemporary reading, more airy and less historical. Four treatments of the same reconstruction: floral binder, leathery warmth, luminous discretion, modern transparency. Comparing these cards gives a good idea of the note's real range.

Accords and families of carnation

Carnation belongs to the floralfamily but leans systematically towards spicy. It is also found in leathersand vintage chypres, for which it readily provides the flowery part. Its natural companions are iris, which gives it its powdery grain, and tobacco, which accentuates its dry side. With ylang-ylang, it gains creamy thickness; with vanilla and balsams, it turns into a comfortable oriental. It poorly tolerates overly sharp freshness: citrus notes make it grating, whereas dry woods and moss support it perfectly.

For whom, at what time?

Carnation is a unisex note that history pushed toward the feminine, before masculine fougères and leathers reclaimed it. It suits people who like dressed-up, somewhat formal perfumes, with character and memory. Its spicy warmth expresses itself best in autumn and winter, in the evening, under a coat, on woolens. In the middle of summer, it can seem heavy. It is a signature note rather than a staple of a wardrobe: one wears it when one wishes to be identified, not when seeking neutrality. A measured spray is more than enough to establish its presence.

How to choose your carnation perfume?

Start by determining the direction that speaks to you: floral and bouquet-like carnation, or leathery and smoky carnation. Both exist, but are not worn in the same way. The custom discovery boxbrings together five 2 mL samples composed by hand: it allows you to compare the two camps at home, over several days, before deciding. Fougère Royaleconstitutes a good entry point to discover carnation in an spicy position, at the heart of an aromatic structure. In the shop in Lille, guided testing will prevent you from confusing the clove effect with the rose effect.

Carnation at Soleil d'Or, a Lille perfumery since 1953

Founded in 1953 by Jeanne Muyllaert on the Grand'Place of Lille, Soleil d'Or is an independent perfumery passed down from generation to generation. Hubert Maës(third generation) made it a reference for niche perfumery; today, his daughters Victorine and Apolline Maës (fourth generation) perpetuate this high standard at 22 rue de la Clef, in Lille (59800). Our team allows you to smell the carnation perfumes in the catalog with expert advice and guided tests, and guides you if necessary using our olfactory families guide.

Delivery & free pickup at the Lille boutique

In metropolitan France, Colissimo delivery is free from €49 at a pickup point and from €59 for home delivery. In Europe, it is free starting from €99 at a pickup point and €149 for home delivery depending on the destination; we also ship internationally. Do you live in Lille or the metropolitan area? Free pickup at the boutique at 22 rue de la Clef is the fastest and most economical solution. All conditions on our shipping page.