Clove Fragrance — the burning spice

Clove in perfumery: the warm spice of eugenol

Clove, the bud of the clove tree

Clove is the dried flower bud of the clove tree, Syzygium aromaticum, a tropical tree native to the Moluccas. Picked before it blossoms, it dries in the sun until it takes on its brown color and nail-like shape. Major production today comes from Madagascar, Indonesia, Zanzibar, and the Comoros. In perfumery, the buds—as well as the stems and leaves—are steam-distilled to obtain essences very rich in eugenol. This same molecule defines the carnation, which explains the immediate kinship between the two notes. A spice of the maritime trade routes, long an object of European monopolies, clove retains this precious and slightly medicinal character in perfumery.

What does clove smell like?

Clove smells warm and pungent. The opening is searing, almost anesthetic, with that memory of a dentist's office that everyone recognizes. Behind it, one finds a floral facet of carnation, a honeyed sweetness, and a dry, slightly smoky woodiness. Its power is considerable: a few tenths of a percent are enough to color an entire formula. On the skin, the medicinal aspect fades within half an hour, leaving behind a spicy warmth that accompanies the base to the end. Its longevity is long, its sillage assertive. Poorly dosed, it dries out and hardens; well-used, it adds bite to spicy perfumesand depth to flowers.

Clove perfumes at Soleil d'Or

Erba Goldby Xerjoffslips clove into a solar and fruity ensemble, where the spice warms without dominating. Royal Oudby Creeduses it conversely to sharpen the encounter between wood and leather. Tabac Blondby Caron, created in 1919, makes it one of the cornerstones of its leather-tobacco accord, which is both dry and powdery. Even older, Quelques Fleurs L'Originalby Houbigant, signed by Robert Bienaiméin 1912, uses the spice to stretch a floral bouquet and keep it from becoming overly sweet. Four eras, four ways of using the same spice.

Accords and families of clove

Clove belongs to the clan of warm spices. It pairs with cinnamonand nutmegto compose gingerbread accords, and with the aforementioned carnation for the spicy florals of yesteryear. On a base of tobaccoand patchouli, it leans decidedly toward leather and resin. It is encountered primarily in oriental perfumesand leathers, and more rarely in fresh compositions, where its warmth stands out. Some dry woody scents use it in trace amounts, only for the slight smoky effect it leaves behind. Its presence is always noticeable, even in tiny quantities.

For whom, at what time?

Clove has no inherent gender. It has served the great florals of the early 20th century as well as the leathers of the 1970s, and is worn today indiscriminately. Its warmth naturally places it in autumn and winter, in the evening, and in cold or humid climates; in midsummer, it can feel heavy. It is aimed at people who embrace an assertive perfume, one that is slightly old-fashioned in spirit, far from consensus-driven freshness. On very warm skin, the spice intensifies: it is better to spray less than usual and let the material work on its own, without layering.

How to choose your clove perfume?

Clove must be judged over time, as its medicinal opening often deceives during a first trial. Wait half an hour before deciding anything. The bespoke discovery boxgathers five hand-poured 2 mL samples: it is the best way to compare several dosages of the spice on your own skin, day after day. As entry points, Erba Goldoffers a bright and easy reading, REDa darker and fruitier version. In Lille, the team will let you smell the pure essence before the compositions, to determine your threshold of tolerance.

Clove at Soleil d'Or, a perfumery in Lille since 1953

Founded in 1953 by Jeanne Muyllaert on the Grand'Place in Lille, Soleil d'Or is an independent perfumery passed down from generation to generation. Hubert Maës(third generation) made it a reference for niche perfumery; today, his daughters Victorine and Apolline Maës (fourth generation) perpetuate this high standard at 22 rue de la Clef, in Lille (59800). Our team will have you smell the clove perfumes in our catalog with expert advice and accompanied testing, and can guide you as needed using our olfactory family guide.

Delivery & free in-store pickup in Lille

In mainland France, Colissimo delivery is free from €49 at a relay point and from €59 at home. In Europe, it is free from €99 at a relay point and €149 at home depending on the destination; we also ship internationally. Do you live in Lille or the metropolitan area? Free in-store pickup at 22 rue de la Clef is the fastest and most economical solution. Full conditions on our shipping page.